Red Iguana Facts

Facts about the Red Iguana

The Iguana family is considered the largest of the lizard families. The most common are the green iguanas. But there are also some with colorful skin, they are known as the red iguana.

One of the popular red iguanas is the Red sided skink. These are multicolored terrestrial and semi-aquatic lizards that are native to the rocky steppes and open forests habitat of Southern and Eastern Africa.

Today, these red iguanas are now the most common well-liked pet reptiles. They are also one of the most purchased on some pet shops. Thus, these red iguanas are now found in the garden and even inside the house.

Care and Feeding Your Red Iguana

Like any other pet, there are some requirements needed in order for the red iguana to grow on its new environment.

1. Proper Housing

A red iguana can live in an aquarium with 30 gallons of water. Enclosures can vary in shapes, sizes and styles, and are made out of glass or wood. The base should be easy to clean. The most efficient to use is the newspaper, but linoleum and artificial grass are also excellent options as well. Keep enclosures away from soil, sand and bark, as these can lead to impaction or obstruction if your iguana ingests them. It is also important to provide them with shallow container for the food and water. These food and water dishes must be thoroughly disinfected and cleaned regularly. It is also necessary to add climbing materials such as twigs, barks, broad limbs and rocks.

2. Right Feeding

Iguanas in general are herbivores and should be given a variety of vegetable and fruits. The bulk of the diet must contain green leafy vegetables such as mustard greens, escarole, kale, and spinach. But it is also important to feed them with limited amount of protein rich foods. You can also offer mixed vegetable like green peppers, squash, frozen mixed vegetables and green beans, and fruits like, bananas, mangoes, and apples. Like other pets, iguanas should be fed everyday.

3. Appropriate Amount of Water

Water is the most essential needs of the iguanas, thus it should be readily available. Normally, iguanas get water through the plant they consume, others lapping water off wood or on the leaves. Exposing your iguana on your environment early in the morning will avoid them from being dehydrated. These iguanas provided with water dishes can train on their own to purge on their water. So, it is important that their dishes are regularly cleaned to prevent bacterial infections.

4. Grooming your Iguana

Like all pets, your iguana must also be properly groomed. Bathing is a good routine to get your iguana used to. It is one way for your pet to obtain water and cleanse themselves. Bathing should be done using lukewarm water in a shallow container, at least 3 times a week. Always, aid your pet to avoid accidents. Keep in mind that not all iguanas have fun during bath time, some might panic.

5. Handling your Iguana

Iguanas should be handled frequently to discipline or tame them. Your pet iguana can be trained to show fondness for those who handle them regularly. They should be held 2-3 times everyday for at least fifteen minutes. Gently stroke, their back and neck and get your pet reptile used to handling and picking them up. Just keep in mind that iguanas can be aggressive by nature so extreme caution is needed in handling your pet reptile.

The information above are some facts about the red iguanas that you must keep in mind. Remember that the pet iguanas are also important and should be treated with proper care.

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IGUANA

Get Acquainted with the Green Iguanas

The green iguanas or those which take the name of "Iguana iguana" are commonly found all over the South and Central America, in Mexico, in the southeastern part of Brazil, eastern Pacific, and the Caribbean. Breeds of the green iguana are now also spotted in Hawaii and Florida. The green iguana is popularly the largest type of lizard that happens to inhabit much of the territories of United States.

The Physical Description of the Green Iguana

In a matter of three years, the young twelve-gram green iguana can turn into a one kilogram adult green iguana. Right after they get hatched, their length varies from 17 to up to 25 centimeters. Most of the well-fed matured green iguanas come to weigh at about 4 and 6 kilograms but at times they reach the 8 kilogram weight.

The term green iguana does not stereotype these reptiles. The matured iguanas come in uniform colors whereas the younger ones vary between brown and green. Their colors can also get affected by their health, mood, temperature, and social statures.

One of the distinct features they have is the dewlap that can be found under their throats. The dewlap is much dominant in the male green iguanas rather than in the females. The laterally positioned eyes of the green iguanas are being protected by some immovable eyelids and mobile lower eyelids. The parietal eye functions as some kind of a meter for the solar energy and contributes much to the maturity of the endocrine and thyroid glands in these reptiles. Lastly, the plates or scales on their heads are much irregular and larger compared to the scales found on the rest of their body parts.

The Habitat of the Green Iguana

Arboreal lizards—these are what green iguanas are and they therefore enjoy living on top of tree canopies. The younger green iguanas tend to stay in the lower portions but the matured ones like it high above. This kind of dwelling technique allows them to do basking in the sun and they rarely go down with the exception of the time when the female green iguanas deem the need to dig their burrows so they can lay their eggs. They still prefer to have water around their habitat so that they can easily escape the predators who love to attack them. They are great swimmers so they most of the times successfully manage to avoid their predators.

The Development of an Iguana

Right after an estimated 65 days upon the mating period, the female green iguana is now ready to lay her eggs. The number and size of the eggs depend upon the size of the female iguana. Within a three-day period, about 10 to 30 pale-colored eggs get deposited into the nests. Other nests can be shared by many female iguanas especially when there is a very limited space for them. Actually, the female iguanas do not guard their nests but they do visit their eggs from time to time. The incubation for the iguana eggs last from about 90 up to 120 days. The hatchlings are the ones that crack their egg shells open by making use of their special egg teeth which are known as the caruncle. The yolks in the eggs are the providers of nourishment for the young iguanas.

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Rhinoceros Iguana

What is Rhinoceros Iguana

The rhinoceros iguana claims the Galapagos marine iguana as its relative. It inhabits mainly the tropical dry forest of North America especially in the Caribbean Sea and the island of Hispaniola. People have spotted a relative of the rhinoceros iguana on the Navassa Island which is currently believed to be already extinct. Most individuals refer to the rhinoceros iguana by its scientific name which is the cyclura comuta. Let us look into the vital details about the rhinoceros iguana.

Rhinoceros Iguana by Physical Description

The rhinoceros iguana is by all means a known powerful lizard. Its body is crested with very firm row of spines at its back and it is also a stout one. Its long legs make it walk while being elevated above the ground. The rhinoceros iguana usually comes in a typical grey-brown hue. The male specie of the rhinoceros iguana can grow up to 56 cm by length and 10 kg in weight.

The skin of the rhinoceros iguana is said to be rough since there are epidermal scales on it. Large scales are on its head while some of these species have horns which are perceived to be simple enlarged scales. The males are obviously bigger than the females and are credited to contain bigger horns too.

Rhinoceros Iguana by Diet and Lifestyle

Iguanas are mainly vegetarians. They can be typically spotted devouring leaves, flowers, seeds, and fruits. The diet of the rhinoceros iguanas varies based on the season and the ontogenetic. At times they do eat land crabs, insects, animal food, and carrion. The younger rhinoceros iguanas often take in small insects and animals. When they take a particular bush or location as a main source of their food, they are likely to defend it from other species of their own kind.

Most of their time is spent eating and then basking under the heat of the sun and at nighttime they do retreat into the burrows, caves, or into some hollow trunks. The male rhinoceros iguanas are the ones that serve as the defenders of their territories and can be found atop the tall trees and large rocks as their sunbathing areas. The male rhinoceros iguanas also tend to be hostile towards the rest of the male species and they are territorial as well. A signal such as the head-bob is used by the rhinoceros iguanas in keeping in touch with one another.

Rhinoceros Iguana by Reproduction

The reproduction stage of the rhinoceros iguanas occur during the spring just right before the rainy season comes in which particularly comes in by the later part of May. The females start excavating their tunnels of about one meter in length to fit in the 34 eggs that they will lay. Typically, the laying of the eggs comes at the earlier part of August. After a period of six months, the eggs start to hatch. The hatchlings take after their parents but are considered to be more of tree-dwellers. Their maturity stage settles in after three years and they could live up to about 30 years.

Like most of the iguanas alive, the rhinoceros iguanas regulate their body temperature by means of the solar energy. Some people opt to keep the rhinoceros iguanas for pets unlike the earlier days when more individuals love to take these creatures as food.

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Iguana1

How to Pick a Healthy Iguana

So, you’ve decided to get a pet.

But you don’t know what kind yet.

You leave the comfort of your home sweet home and go to the local pet shop. After looking at several types of dogs, cats, birds, and even fish, you suddenly realize that you want something out of the ordinary; something that would definitely turn heads.

You look around, wary that you might not find the perfect pet, when suddenly you chance upon a tank or two of very green lizards with dewlaps hanging from their chins. Some are just hatchlings, while others look somewhat old. You get excited and want to know what the animals are. You ask the clerk or pet shop owner about them. He/she tells you.

He/she also gives other interesting information, like the reptiles came from Peru, Surinam, Honduras, Columbia, or Mexico; there are more than 700 species of these animals; or the lizards are called “Bamboo Chicken” in some places.

You listen more and nod your head in agreement while telling yourself that you must get this animal for a pet. At long last, you tell yourself. You’ve found the pet of your dreams – the iguana.

However, you want to make sure that the animal is healthy. You are not just willing to spend your money on an animal that would die quickly. So, what are you supposed to do?

The answer is easy: conduct a touch test.

The shop owner must allow you to hold the chosen iguana in your two hands. You may use the finger of one hand to inspect the different body parts of the animal.

What things do you look out for?

In terms of its common appearance, consider the following:

• The skin should be firm, clear, clean, and free of bites and scratches. (Bites and scratches might get infected later on.)

• The stomach should be free of burns. (Burns may eventually heal, but the skin would always be very sensitive to heat.)

• The stomach has no ground-in stool. (A dirty stomach indicates that the animal is living in an unhygienic environment which can make it sick and weak.)

• The opening is free of dried stool and urine. (The presence of these shows that the lizard might have parasites and protozoa in its stomach.)

• The iguana resists strongly when its body parts are moved. (Weakness and instability may be a sign that the lizard is injured or suffering from calcium insufficiency.)

• The limbs, tail, and the whole body have no lumps, bumps, or swelling. (Cysts, infections, and fractures need veterinary treatment.)

• The rear legs and thighs are shaped normally. (A swollen leg may indicate a fracture; two legs or thighs, an insufficient supply of calcium.)

• The limbs are sturdy and full while the body is smooth and vibrant looking. (If the limbs are very thin, the lizard may be starving or dehydrated. If the body looks wrinkled and dull, there may be bacterial or parasite infections.)

For its head, eyes, ears, nose, and mouth, you may take note of the following:

• The eyes should be clear. (If they are bleary, crusted, or weepy, there might be an infection in the respiratory system or inflammation of the eyes.)

• The nose has no dried or wet mucus. (Dried or bubbly mucus is an indication of infection in the respiratory system.)

• The insides of the mouth should look healthy. (Infections would cause rotting of the insides of the mouth.)

• The jaw is not swollen. (If it is, then, the animal might have a metabolic disease.)

• There are no swellings or lumps on its face, dewlap, or neck. (Swellings may indicate abscesses.)

In terms of behavior, observe the following:

• A healthy baby would try to get away.

• An unresponsive iguana in your hands may be extremely ill.

These are just some of the things you have to look out for when buying a pet iguana.

Now that you know how to spot a healthy iguana and you have already spotted a healthy one, you leave the store with a smile on your face. It will not be an easy job to raise your newly bought iguana, but it is sure worth a try.

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Iguana Cages

The Essential Components of a Proper Iguana Cage

When people think about buying an iguana, different questions come to mind. More often than not, one of these questions is: Where do I keep it? People then try to find out the components of an iguana cage. If you are trying to find the best iguana cage for your pet, here's a guide for you:

1) Size – The first thing you want to know about is how big the iguana cage has to be. Some people have the misconception that the cage will limit the size of the iguana. This is not true. An iguana under ideal conditions will grow up to 6 feet long. This means that you will need to have a huge iguana cage in order to accommodate your pet. In fact, some people provide a whole room instead of an iguana cage for their pets!

Of course, if you are not yet ready to provide this space for your iguana, you could choose to delay until your iguana grows to its full size. However, the iguana cage that you provide should be large enough to contain the activities of your iguana. It should not cramp the animal in any way. If you choose to wait until your iguana has grown to full size, you should at least prepare and make plans for the time when you are going to need a bigger iguana cage.

2) Temperature – an iguana is cold blooded. This means that they need to regulate their body temperatures by making use of the environment. What are the implications of this? This means that you need to provide different temperatures in the iguana cage. This is so that the iguana can move from different spots to properly regulate its body temperature. You should also try to include a source of heat without light which will be used during the night time.

3) Humidity – iguanas require high levels of humidity to live comfortably. They are easily dehydrated because of the fact that iguanas aren't really inclined to drink much. This is because the native habitats of iguanas have high humidity and this keeps them from being dehydrated. Dehydration can lead to kidney failure. This means that not having enough humidity can shorten the life of your iguana. Another reason to keep your iguana cage humid is the fact that humidity helps loosen skin. This means that an iguana will have an easier time shedding skin if it is kept in a humid environment. If you wan to keep your iguana healthy, you should provide an iguana cage that has a humidity of 65 to 75 percent of the air.

4) Lighting – iguanas need a source of UVA and UVB light. Of course, the best source that you can make use of is the sun. This does not mean that you should place your iguana cage in a sunlit area. The glass or plastic of iguana cages filter out the UV light much needed by iguanas for production of vitamin D3. This vitamin helps in calcium consumption. This means that you need to let your iguana bask in direct sunlight as much as possible. This helps in developing strong bones and preventing Metabolic Bone disease which is a very common cause of death among iguanas in captivity.

Other than the sun, your iguana cage should also include an artificial source of UVA and UVB light. This is in order to make up for days when the sunlight is not enough for your iguana.

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